I have written a decade ago that accusations of cultural appropriation are about snobbery, not protecting cultures. We show that we know how the dish is prepared back in Nepal, or what this dance means in Namibia, or what an earring means in Nauru - and you don't, you benighted fool.
Listening about the exchange of elite goods in the Iron Age today, I was struck by a similar pattern. First, a foreign good would be given and received solely as a marker of status. It should you had a wide reach, and wide knowledge. Kings exchanged gifts as a favor to each other, so that they could show them off. Yet as trade increased, a few things started happening. The expensive pottery influenced the style of the local pottery. Other people desired to get some inferior version of the foreign pattery if they couldn't get the best kind. In a generation the original gift was not fully unique, and in two generations it might even be a bit common. I was reminded of the objects the sea captains brought back from distant lands to the ports of Boston and Portland, and how they populate the small museums of various towns in New England. Ornate letter-openers, doll-costumes, or intricate knives from Rio, or Rangoon, now mostly valuable because they are 200 years old, not because they are from a distance. We have such things in abundance now, but they were treasures then. They have become much less valuable.
And she feeds you tea and oranges, that come all the way from China. Well, we've all got lots of stuff from China now, which is different even from 1966. The tea in question was Constant Comment, by the way, which was created in NYC in 1945, so, bit of a letdown there.
So to with the treasures from other cultures that are information. If you know about tlayudas, that used to be a big deal. But now that there are Oaxacan restaurants in the US, for status you now need to know the real way they cook tlayudas in Oaxaca to be one up on the others in your circle. Your status object is now not a piece of pottery, but information. This is much harder to protect, and other people knowing the good stuff cheapens your precious object. You have to cry "Sultural Appropriation" to slow them down and keep your leverage. The accusation is a specific version of a larger general case about showing off your foreign connections.
And of course the Oaxacans, finding different vegetables and spices locally, adapt their cuisine to the local materials. Is it still authentic?
ReplyDeleteI went to a Korean restaurant, and found that one of the "appetizer"(*) dishes was thin-sliced hot dogs with a new sauce.
(*)I can't recall what those kind of sides are called, so I'll appropriate the word "appetizer" to describe them.
Yes, and an American couple whose parents had come from Hong Kong went to HK and opened a restaurant of American-style Chinese food, which was a hit because it was a novelty. They had to import peanut butter for one of the sauces. When anything moves to a new place it is adapted. This was also true 5000 y/a.
ReplyDeleteI laughed at my comment on your previous post. I've since moved to Alabama and complain about the lack of Tex-Mex. Also, it's hard to find a decent chicken fried steak and fried catfish here. Perhaps I just like to complain.
ReplyDeleteThat's a nice insight, AVI.
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